Fifth time on Halki

[davidfromhastings]

Having got back home a week ago I thought I'd write a few notes on my fifth stay in Halki which, hopefully, will interest those that love the island and intrigue those yet to visit.

Early starts, long lunches and leaping mammals:

This year I came on the Easyjet 05.30 flight out of Gatwick. Unlike previous years there didn't seem much point in getting a room at the airport for such an early flight so I just got a late train up from Hastings getting me in shortly after midnight. This only left three hours or so before it was time to head to bag drop off and security. On arrival at Rhodes the Olympic rep asked me to come back in an hour as they were awaiting another flight (the early Monarch from Manchester) so I had the chance for a coffee and catching up on emails. In fact the Monarch flight had just a family of three Halki bound so I was quite impressed that Olympic had a small coach just to take the four of us to Kamiros Skala which we reached at 14.00. As expected we were booked on the 17.30 Nissos Halki crossing so there was time (plenty) for an enjoyable lunch at the Althemeni fish restaurant washed down by my first two bottles of Mythos of the holiday.
In fact, had I paid for a one way ticket I could have got a much earlier crossing on either Fedon or Express Nikos both of which made the crossing around 15.00 - but I realised that would probaly just cause confusion all round and with nobody ready for me at the other end. Eventually the four of us duly boarded and it looked like a repeat of last July when just five of us made the crossing until, after some delay, another full size Olympic coach arrived with around another thirty passengers and we set off for Halki.
Excited enough as I was anyway things hit fever pitch half way across with the shout of Dolphin! And, yes there it was, leaping out of the water in the wake of the boat. I've probaly mentioned before that in seventeen years of visiting Greek islands I have never seen one (except on fridge magnets, beach towels, postcards and just about everything else you can put a dolphin image on). It was truly a magical moment.

Arrival and studio alarm:

Hyped up by the dolphin event everything was going just great with this trip until on being warmly greeted by Zifos Travel (agents for Olympic) at Emborio I was told I was in Studio 3 at the Dorothea. Now that wasn't in the script as I had specifically booked and had confirmation of a Side Sea View (which is Studio 4 only). Read my Dorothea review in the Accommodation Reviews section here to fully understand the difference but, simply, four has a private balcony leading off the kitchen, three has a front balcony accessed from the communal corridor. Studio three is lovely (I've sneaked a look when it was empty!) but I wanted MY balcony. It seems that Zifos do not get the info (from Olympic) about front/side bookings and it was suggested that I should have made a special request for studio 4 (I'll be taking that one up with Olympic in due course). However, a quick resolution was proposed namely that if four was empty when I arrived at the Dorothea I should take that and let them know I was in that one. A rather nervous ascent of the steps followed but, thankfully, I was greeted by an unoccupied studio 4 and promptly took possession! Next Retsina (six euros this year for a 1.5ltr bottle) cheese, crackers, oregano crisps, peach juice and water were all promptly purchased and lugged back up the steps and I was sitting on my balcony enjoying that spectacular view over the harbour. Home!

First day storm, A moment of Pride and Meet the Kids:

There's nothing like getting up on that first morning on a Greek island to head out to the balcony with a cup of coffee and soak up that sunshine. This was, indeed, nothing like that. Storm clouds, bolts of lightening and then rain greeted me early the next morning. That wasn't in the script either. Luckily the rain didn't last long at this point. This being a Thursday morning I knew that the twice weekly arrival of the Dodekanisos Express fast catamaran ferry was due only to find (who says nothing much changes on Halki?) sister ferry Dodekanisos Pride powering into the harbour. This vessel normally runs the Symi route (I transferred back on it from Symi in 2011). Essentially they are both very similar but with Pride being built in 2005 (in Norway) five years after the Express. At least, as a photographer, this was something different to photograph.
I later did my traditional first walk of the holiday to Kania later on (having to put my camera away several times as rain started up again). For variation, whilst descending down to Kania I took the dirt road that goes off to the right. This then becomes a very overgrown road before coming to an end by a large gap in a wire fence. Passing the sign on the fence (in Greek) that might have said Danger Unexploded Mines but probaly just Private: Keep Out I picked my may down across a very rocky field until I was almost at Kania. Sadly, at the bottom there didn't seem to be any corresponding gap in the fence and retraced my steps back up. Heading back to Emborio I was delighted to meet a family of goats in the road with two very tiny young kids (who bleated at me rather forlornly). Eventually the family moved off into a field leaving just one kid behind -which I now felt personally responsible for (what if it gets run over by the bus?). I saw them all on a later walk so they were fine. Arriving back at the harbour front heading for a Mythos and toasted cheese sandwich at Costas the rain started in ernest and chucked down for a good ten minutes. If seeing a dolphin was a first, seeing a Greek person sheltering under an umbrella was another.

Tilos, Turkey and Death of a Phone:

The following Tuesday saw me aboard the Pride off on a day trip to Tilos. As last year this was a bargain 18euro return. My plan for Tilos was simple - a walk to the abandoned village of Gera (as outlined by Stevec in my earlier post Fourth Time On Halki). Pausing for some breakfast on the seafront at Livadia I then followed the promenade to the far right end (looking seawards) before climbing the road steeply upwards. This in turn then leads to a narrow path carved into the coastal cliffs with spectacular views throughout. At this point my phone alerted with a Welcome to Turkey message. Bit of a surprise to me and, I imagine, the residents of Tilos. I assume that away from the populated area of Livadia the Turkish network was the strongest signal in reach. Sadly, that was the last message I was ever to get on that phone. Gera took roughly 90 minutes to reach from Livadia (with photo and water stops). Like the abandoned village of Mikro Chorio that I visited on Tilos last year there was again the strange feeling whilst walking amongst ruined buildings and houses where people had once lived and just like there a sheep and myself managed to startle each other when it dashed out from one of the ruins. It was all very photogenic though I struggled with constant cloud blocking out the sunlight and I wasn't at all surprised when I first felt drops of rain. Localised rain. Very localised rain. It took a surprisingly long time for me to realise that the rain was in fact my water bottle leaking in my back pack and splashing down the back of my legs. This is the point at which I discovered that mobile phones and water do not make a good combination - who knew?
You can continue on the path beyond Gera for a circular route back to Livadia but as my ferry time was getting closer I just opted to return the same way, again enjoying the amazing views and just having enough time to sit on the harbour front with a cheese pie and a can of Mythos before returning to Halki.

Regatta time:

Sunday 18th saw the Channel Regatta come to Halki when 23 yachts gradually arrived and moored up together. Organised by the Offshore Yachting Club of Rhodes and the Marmeris International Yacht Club this is a three stage race taking in Rhodes to Symi, Symi to Halki and finally Halki back to Rhodes. It certainly made for a lively evening with speakers set up on the harbour front and loud music being played -quite a contrast to the normal peaceful atmosphere but, I thought, made for a nice change. The next morning they all set off -again with music playing from one of the yachts.

Walk to Areta, Mist and That Well:

I saved this lengthy walk till near the end of my holiday (see the guide by Sth in my Fourth Time thread). Taking the road to Kania I turned off by the old power generators -there's now a sign post for Areta here. Through the two gates and then a steep clamber up the rocky hill. There is a path of sorts but I struggled to see it at times. With a stone wall on my left I kept going upwards and then bore left when the wall did. A further climb away from the wall took me to the welcome shade of some olive trees. From here there is a steep clamber taking you up to a gap just below the summit which brings you out onto a huge valley sweeping down to Kania which you can see far below. After this I just kept moving round the island just below summit level -sometimes with a defined track and sometimes improvising. Eventually after about 90 minutes (total) I reached the steep ravine leading down to Areta. From here I could have descended into the ravine and up the other side before continuing on and eventually ending up coming back down the road to Emborio. However, I decided to call a halt here as I had no idea how long that stage would take and, worryingly, a thick sea mist was now rolling in and covering the summit ahead. I had no idea how thick that mist was likely to get but I did realise there was no chance of finding my back down if I couldn't see ahead. Back tracking I kept looking back to see the mist slowly advancing on me -no rush then! This is the point at which I realised I was about to walk into a deep uncovered well next to the ruins of an old chapel. The very well that Sth had cautioned about in his guide -and here it was a couple of feet away. I was very pleased when I was finally making my long descent back to the Kania road - Emborio visible ahead.

As ever, the time to return home came and we set off on the Nissos Halki at the fairly civilised time of 07.30 (I've had earlier transfers in my time). Boarding the coach at Kamiros Skala I was a bit surprised to have my name called out. It turned out that I was the only one catching the noon Easyjet flight home and the coach made a special stop at the airport just for me before taking the rest of my fellow travellers off to kill time before their later flights. The end of another two great weeks on Halki. I have a feeling that I may visit a different island next year but I can certainly say I'll be back for a sixth visit in the future.

[Deleted]

I'm astounded that well is still uncovered after all these years. The thought of stepping into it makes me shiver to this day.

[ketut]

Thanks for posting on this site DavidfromHastings I don't use facebook so it's great to have this to catch up on what's happening on Halki while we are not there.  We never have a relaxing crossing to and from Halki what with the anticipation of arriving again and we are always "on Dolphin watch" and we have been lucky to have sightings every crossing, this time a pod of about 5 or 6 but not as close to the boat as sometimes happens.
When you took the road to the right when walking to Kania did you come across the deserted church.  We took this route back from Kania to Emborio and it was pretty hard going, especially the decent back towards the harbour but the church is very atmospheric and the views terrific but it's definitely the road way from now on.
On your walks have you every managed to get to St. John the Far.  We have tried this walk twice now, the first time we couldn't find the entrance down the gorge.  After taking advice we tried again on a cloudy and drizzly day.  Again we had to turn back due to the conditions which were wet underfoot, windy and hard to see as the clouds kept being blown down through the mountain gap.  When we turned back we were surprised to see Poppi and Garifalia by St. John the Near, they were snail hunting, so we spent a pleasant (if wet) interlude with them searching out snails (apparently they are a favourite of Garifalia).  We were happy not to try the resulting meal and happy to retreat to Nick's to shelter from the rain (and refreshments of course)!
We saw the sign for Areta this year but looking up I have to say it didn't tempt us.

[Deleted]

I think you are confusing St.John with St.George. Ag. Ioannis (the far) is the large monastery at the end of the paved road. Ag.Georgi is down the ravine beyond St.John the Near. Quite an interesting walk either from the top or from the bottom (small cement landing jetty). Peaceful when you do get there.
The old church you referred to is the only one on Halki with a double apse. It was built by the great grandfather of a chap who currently has a house on Halki and lives in USA. DavidfromHastings, that well is not actually on the direct route to Areta. You must have veered left after climbing up the valley above Kania and taken a very long way round but nonetheless rewarding. The track you followed ended up in that amazing huge valley which is Lagonia. Away on the far side of that valley is the ruin (total) of an ancient small village. The way down to Areta from that valley is not for the faint hearted and there have been some nasty rock falls there over the years. I would leave that to the goatherds. On one walk I made many years ago (around 25) to Lagonia, I was given a 45 minute lead and then my friend left on his donkey. He beat me to it by 10 minutes and I didn't hang around. There followed a wonderful couple of hours sitting under a bush eating cheese and bread and listening to him calling and fussing over his flock. I beat him back!!!! (and for my pains was made to buy the beer). Great memories - just don't ask me to do it now.

[Liz]

Great report David ... that incident with the well sounds so scarey

[davidfromhastings]

Jun 30, 2017 9:52:07 GMT ketut said:

Thanks for posting on this site DavidfromHastings I don't use facebook so it's great to have this to catch up on what's happening on Halki while we are not there.  We never have a relaxing crossing to and from Halki what with the anticipation of arriving again and we are always "on Dolphin watch" and we have been lucky to have sightings every crossing, this time a pod of about 5 or 6 but not as close to the boat as sometimes happens.
When you took the road to the right when walking to Kania did you come across the deserted church.  We took this route back from Kania to Emborio and it was pretty hard going, especially the decent back towards the harbour but the church is very atmospheric and the views terrific but it's definitely the road way from now on.
On your walks have you every managed to get to St. John the Far.  We have tried this walk twice now, the first time we couldn't find the entrance down the gorge.  After taking advice we tried again on a cloudy and drizzly day.  Again we had to turn back due to the conditions which were wet underfoot, windy and hard to see as the clouds kept being blown down through the mountain gap.  When we turned back we were surprised to see Poppi and Garifalia by St. John the Near, they were snail hunting, so we spent a pleasant (if wet) interlude with them searching out snails (apparently they are a favourite of Garifalia).  We were happy not to try the resulting meal and happy to retreat to Nick's to shelter from the rain (and refreshments of course)!
We saw the sign for Areta this year but looking up I have to say it didn't tempt us.



Thanks Ketut. I assume the deserted church you mean is the one you can see on top of the hill above the harbour. I did that walk back in 2005 the other way round - leaving Emborio and ending up at Kania. I did look this year to see where to start that walk but seemed to be all fences and private gardens at that end of the village so wasn't sure how to get out onto the hill. The longest walk ever (distance wise) was after taking the taxi to the far monastery then walking the road back down to Emborio. I'm envious of all your dolphin sightings -think I have just been unlucky as I always keep a look out on any boat journey. 
Though I am on Facebook and am a member of the Halki group there I much prefer the archival nature of this forum where you can easily refer back to walk suggestions etc. Try finding something that was posted even last week on Facebook! I wish more people posted here.... 

[davidfromhastings]

Jun 30, 2017 16:22:13 GMT @sth said:

I think you are confusing St.John with St.George. Ag. Ioannis (the far) is the large monastery at the end of the paved road. Ag.Georgi is down the ravine beyond St.John the Near. Quite an interesting walk either from the top or from the bottom (small cement landing jetty). Peaceful when you do get there.
The old church you referred to is the only one on Halki with a double apse. It was built by the great grandfather of a chap who currently has a house on Halki and lives in USA. DavidfromHastings, that well is not actually on the direct route to Areta. You must have veered left after climbing up the valley above Kania and taken a very long way round but nonetheless rewarding. The track you followed ended up in that amazing huge valley which is Lagonia. Away on the far side of that valley is the ruin (total) of an ancient small village. The way down to Areta from that valley is not for the faint hearted and there have been some nasty rock falls there over the years. I would leave that to the goatherds. On one walk I made many years ago (around 25) to Lagonia, I was given a 45 minute lead and then my friend left on his donkey. He beat me to it by 10 minutes and I didn't hang around. There followed a wonderful couple of hours sitting under a bush eating cheese and bread and listening to him calling and fussing over his flock. I beat him back!!!! (and for my pains was made to buy the beer). Great memories - just don't ask me to do it now.

Thanks for the clarification Sth. So it was Lagonia I reached then. You're right -after leaving the Kania valley I just kept going following the summit round. I didn't see any paths or indications of where I should have headed for Areta (I really should invest in a map I suppose). It was an enjoyable walk all the same -until the mist started coming in. Maybe it would never get so bad that I wouldn't be able to see the way but I wasn't going to take that chance. The well was a surprise given that I had been warned! 

[Deleted]

Your mistake was to follow the summit. Above Kania, after the rock ridge, there is a short stoney area which opens out onto a fairly large flat featureless bit. At that point there is a fork in the goat tracks and you followed the left one. The direct one -and who knows - it may be nowadays the least noticeable, is the one you want. Having crossed that flat place (about 500 yards, with the small church ruin and "well" up to your left), you step over or through a broken stone wall and follow another shoulder high wall on your left round and down. The coast below will now be visible and it is an easy goat track descent down to the ravine above Areta. There is a twisted path across the ravine with a gate (or used to be). Then a little scramble over a rock outcrop before you have to head right, down and round to the area above Areta. There is a huge cave there where Yannio used to keep his sheep and all their equipment. You have to hunt a bit for the best way down. Sensibly, there is only one and it lands you down at the right rear corner of the stone beach. Then jump in the water and chill.

[davidfromhastings]

Thanks Sth! Think I've got it now. I'll give that another try on my next Halki visit for sure. Regards, David.

[pda]

Wondered why I've never seen a well on the way to Areta.....
Path still fairly clear on the way down, not so on the way back...
Sth instructions to get there still work and clear. The walking map is well worth getting & also shows the routes and shows where you veered off to the church & well..
Not tried Lagonia or Mili, maybe next Aprils challenge..