First visit for a while

[johnr]

We are just back. This has been our first visit for seven years and our 9th in total over about 20 years. First off I have to say that, yes there are changes, Halki isn't a theme park. However, one thing that has not changed on this board or its predecessors is that someone (no offence Andrew) will always be saying that it has finally gone to the bow-wows and they are never coming back. Many years ago, someone said it would soon be indistinguishable to from Faliraki.

First impression as we chugged into the harbour was how spick and span the island is looking. Plenty of new coats of paint and some new or renovated houses, mostly quite tastefully built.

The second impression was the beams of recognition and open armed welcome we got from the "old guard" - Petros, Maria's daughter, Costa, for example. I can't think of anywhere else we would have got that. They are people who have seen us discover Halki in the 80s and return with babies to be fussed over , stumpy toddlers and now gracefull teenagers. The feeling of homecoming was quite overwhelming.

Yes, the island was crowded for the festival - I would say either enjoy or go at a different time of year. The height of the season wouldn't be my first choice, but school terms are still the boss at the moment.

If anyone is interested, here is an "in" and "out" list compared with the last 20 years;

OUT;
Donkeys
Multitude of cats
Rice in the salt cellar.
Ancient crones, perpetually dressed in black, some as old as 46.
Lumbering but charming feries that took 2hrs from KS.
Lefteris Lefthourakis
Hotel like a Mediteranian Fawlty Towers.
Dirt roads with nothing much at the end of them.
Huge wedges of nearly worthless drachmas to pay for dinner.
Laskarina.

IN:
Air conditioning.
Cars (but not traffic since they don't go anywhere much).
The bus.
Water Taxis.
Wineglasses with stems.
Meals that are served hottish and in some sort of order of courses.
Easy access to medical attention.
Short crossing from KS.
Tellys in the bars.
Renovation, repainting.
Posh hotel.
Well surfaced roads with nothing much at the end of them.
Huge wedges of hard-earned Euros to pay for dinner.
Opulant motor yachts.
Fetenagia. (just invented last time).

But most things that were IN 20 years ago are still in; friendliness, cheerfulness, good, simple food.
Theodosia made a brilliant birthday cake for number 1 daughter's 17th, "and so low calorie" as Jane Chapmam commented with heavy irony. At 16 euros, that, at least, didn't break the bank.

There isn't any point in ignoring those eye-watering prices. Seven years ago, I could still say that once the holiday was paid for, day-to day budgeting on the Island was little more than being at home. Now, Phew! thesix of us might easily spend 80 Euros plus on an evening meal, and that was a real shock and led to us eating in some of the time, or lunching on Dimitri's still excellent spinach pies instead of going to Nick's at Pondamos.
The excahnge rate is one reason, but I think not the only one; twenty years ago, Greece was a low wage, low price society on the fringe of europe. Today with EU membership, people expect to earn more in a rapidly growing economy. They are an industrious people but the same process that has meant that they won't cripple themselves sponge fishing or work the barren fields on Halki and the other islands means that they won't work for next to nothing serving the tourists either. Its not a rip off, greed maybe, but part of the human condition.

The only thing that really disappointed me this time, was the little chapel up at the castle. The Byzantine frescos are now almost completely gone. The roof collapsed about 25 years ago I think; could someone not have put some corougated iron up at some time? Not much point now.

It is sad that it is so difficult to afford, beacause I want to be back next year.
I once stumbled accross a mostly American travel board on which someone was asking if anyone could reccommend a good Greek island for a couple of days. I replied that I would no more reccommend a Greek island on that basis than I would a woman, but in any event steer well clear of Halki; you would fall in love with the place and want to spend the rest of your life there.
The only thing that I think would really change the island beyond recognition would be the building of the water pipe from Rhodes. But that was being talked about twenty years ago!

Don't be put off if you haven't been for a while. The magic is still there, as strong as ever.

[carol]

Thank you so much for writing that, yesterday I and others were feeling quite sad but that has hopefully put things into perspective. I am so pleased you enjoyed your holiday so much that you want to return next year. The welcome we receive when we arrive always amazes me, I doubt there are many places where that happens, 13 days and we will be there ;D cannot wait ;D

[daisy]

Yes so good to read some positive comments from someone who knew Halki many years ago and yet can still love this magical Island.

TBH it would have to turn in to Faliraki to put me off returning every year.

I am off in 2 weeks time and cannot wait to turn that corner and see the beautiful vista of Halki just a speck in the distance and wait with such anticipation to dock and see all those wonderful familar faces.

Personally I don't care how much prices have risen and if it means maybe having an evening or two on the balcony self catering instead of going to a Taverna I will do that after all you don't have to pay for the view.

I love Halki and think I always will and I am eternally grateful to the couple we met many years ago on Paros who first told us about this true little piece of paradise.

JMHO

[janeandtony]

That was a wonderful post johnr and I think that it summed up the magic that most of us feel when we return to Halki. We too felt quite sad when we read yesterdays post and felt that maybe August wasn't the best time to go and expect it to be at its quietest!!!
See you in 13 days Carol and Daisy

[Enforcer]

Aug 20, 2009 11:25:41 GMT johnr said:

Yes, the island was crowded for the festival - I would say either enjoy or go at a different time of year. The height of the season wouldn't be my first choice, but school terms are still the boss at the moment.

I think johnr put it succinctly. The festival has to be seen and we did it twice in '94 and '95 thereafter we go first 2 weeks September when Halki is almost close to being a ghost town.

Carol, Miss Daisy we have been moved from the South Terminal to the North so will see you at KS. You still will not be able to recognize me because of my dark glasses and Carnation disguise.

[cathy]

Yes I saw the posts last night and was going to reply but will reply to this one instead.

I LOVE HALKI! sorry for shouting but I do! I've only been going for 9 years and I'm lucky in that I go first 2 weeks in May and first 2 weeks in October when it is very quiet, I love the quiet, the food and most of all the people. I went in july this year for the first time, also the first time I've gone with friends. I won't go back in july but my friends loved it and will go back next year, one of the things they remarked on was how cheap it was compared to other places they have been on holiday.

I can't say that I've noticed any significant price rises over the years and if anything I love the place more every time I go, roll on October!

[sunfun]

:)WE LOVE HALKI TOO! It is so magical,it really is something to shout about! ;D Yes,it was quite expensive,but where isn't nowadays? We ate our brekkie on the balcony which was a pleasure to do so.We also dined in a couple of evenings,but really enjoyed it. The place just has something that is impossible to put into words,but surpassed all our expectations...big time!
It was our first visit,but we are booked for next year.If it gets better each time,then all i can say is WOW! ;D ;D

[stuartg]

Jane and Tony - we echo everything you said. But actually we were sitting in the Piazza bar during the tail end of the yogurt/egg fight and basically found it VERY amusing - the comment from somebody saying something like "next year take your brats to Falaraki was just ridiculous, more tolerance please. Also this August Halki was comparatively 'dead' - nothing like as busy as last year. Anyway we're about to book for next July, but I reckon a week later than usual - June 30th and can't wait. BTW apparently I'll be walking up to the kastro on my own, Marie likes Halki at a lower level and has only just forgiven me for the 100 degree debacle ten days ago - but if anyone cares to join me let me know.

[daisy]

Think we will be able to spot you Mr Enforcer even with the disguise

[janeandtony]

I think that Tony would enjoy a walk to the Kastro with you Stuart
Marie and I will keep the sunbeds warm and have a nice cold drink waiting for you when you get back!!! ;D ;D ;D

[stuartg]

Ok Tony, you're on - June 31st 2010, 6.30am. I'll meet you outside Avra and head off up the hill ('Hill of Doom' as Marie now calls it). And apparently Marie was envious of your late morning chilled retsina - so maybe she'll join Jane and sample it for herself.

[fergie]

It was so good to read your post John. I loved the in/out list! It certainly puts things in perspective and reassures me that we will love Halki as much as ever when we go back in only 9 sleeps.

[johnr]

Thaks, all for your appreciation of what I posted.
BTW, Stuart and others climbing to the kastro; they way I did it with two of my kids this year, was get the 5pm bus up to the Horio, climb up and then walk home. The worst bit is done the lazy way and you are out of the hottest part of the day! Plus no nonsense about 6.30 am starts!

[janeandtony]

Stuart, Tony says he's busy that day (I think it was the "Hill of Doom" that frightened him!!!!) so maybe not, but I hope that Marie will still join us for a late morning chilled retsina on the beach- nothing else, at any other time of the day tastes quite like it!!!!!
Is it too soon to start counting sleeps??? ;D